Source: Rodrigo Farías, Surfestival 2008. The man in the picture it's me.
Today i will explain about my favorite activity in free time. I will explain about surfing.
I started in surfing in 2008, in the beach of Maitencillo, region V. In summer, I had a surfing class with 8 to 10 classmates and 2 teachers when learning about use for the board and how do i stand up on the board. I had 3 classes and I felt very happy. Since 2009, I practice surfing until february 15th, 2010. The frequence of practice is relative, because depend with tides, swell, period of the wave, etc. In 2009, this is the year when i practice a little time, only 2 days in Pichilemu. The reason: Health problem in march and the consequences in the second semester. But, in september, I practiced in the Flowride (artificial wave) in Santiago. In this summer 2010, i practiced in 8 to 9 days in Infiernillo, a beach in Pichilemu. Now, i don't practice because the tsunami wave create problems with the bars of sand in the shore and many things and trashes deposits in the shore, like cars, trees, houses, etc. It's difficult to surfing beaches now.
Why i started? because i am interested about the sea waves, this is a simple reason.
Why I enjoy this activity? Because it's funny, it's hard and useful for interesting about coastal process and surf culture, and finally, it's a activity when i relax and have contact with the sea and nature.