Today I will talk about my favorite historical and famous person. This man is Eddie Aikau.
If you don't know this famous person, he is a hawaiian surfer. He was born in May 5, 1946 and die in February 1978.
Even though he's dead, I will like to meet, because for me, is a heroe. He tried to rescue the boat "Hokulea", organizated by the Polynesian Voyaging Society in 1978. He didn't use a life preserver, he used a surfboard to tried to rescue all the crew. He paddled toward Lanai (a hawaiian island) on his surfboard. I like to talk to him and explains to me, the real use of surfboard in different situations, why he made that decision to paddled to an island and didn't use a life preserver, further that he was a good surfer and talk to me the real experience of big waves.
He knew about waves and I will ask to Eddie about his experience of surfing, the rescue (and motivation) and the knowledge of the coast an all necesary to know an lifeguard (I really don't like be a lifeguard, but the concepts of currents and waves is very interesting and he knew about that) and obviously, the legacy of all the surfers and some chilean surfers who want to follow his path (for example: Ramon Navarro).
His person is interesting not only for me, but all chilean people who suffer the consequences of the tsunami and explains to this people "don't be afraid to go to sea, but they must be know it well" and have a good conversation to the victims, surfers and geographers to make a decision an motivation (and responsability) to live in the coast and the real spirit of surfing.